5 things I *stopped doing* to be a better seamstress

We have always something new to learn. At first I skipped some steps because I couldn't wait to finish a garment, but this made me create low quality clothes. Let's see my mistakes so you won't make it too and if you are making them, let's try to correct them!

#1 sewing at a higher speed

At first I thought that speed = good skill, so I got used to sewing faster but doing so I made a lot of mistakes and the quality was really poor. With speed you don't have control and this makes you to redo some parts of it and you loose time. - and sometimes you loose also confidence -

#2 don’t press at all

Iron should be one of your best friend! Iron press at all the stitches you make gives at the garment a more neat and professional look.

Just be sure to use the right temperature for that particular fabric.

Low temperature: 110°C or below ( acetate, lycra, nylon )

Medium temperature: 110°C to 150°C ( acrylic, lace, polyester, wool, and silk )

High temperature: from 150°C ( linen, cotton, viscose/rayon, denim )

#3 don’t care about the fabric needs

Every fabric has its own needle. By choosing the wrong one you can broke the needle, make the sewing machine "eat" the fabric, get a not well made stitch.

60 thin ➡ 100 thicker

Universal needles:

size 70 thin woven fabrics without stretch, for cotton, viscose
size 80 for cotton canvas, linen, velvet
size 90 heavier and thicker woven fabrics without stretch, for denim and canvas
size 100 multiple layers of denim and upholstery fabric

Jersey needles

Leather needles

Twin needles

#4 don’t make a toile & fit check

Since I want to se the result as soon as possible I tended to pass some important steps like making a toile and try it one while sewing. A toile is essential to see if the garment is good for your body and is a way to practice what you are going to do with the right fabric. It might take time but not as redoing the complete garment from 0, you will loose time and money!